December Gardening Gift Ideas and Tips

By Jason Reeves, research horticulturist and garden curator, UT Gardens, Jackson

Need a Christmas gift for a gardener? How about a King of Spades 18" Dura Rake or Diamond Point Spade with foot pad. At the UT Gardens in Jackson we are now using many of the W. W. Manufacturing King of Spade tools made in New Jersey. Once you use their products, you will not want any other. They are costly, but well worth it. To find a retailer near you go to http://www.wwmfg.com/ or order online at http://www.kingofspadesonline.com/.

Another tool that would make a great gift and I wouldn’t garden without it, is the Harper Hand Truck. This dolly is great for moving heavy pots and bags of soil, mulch or other supplies. Whether you purchase the Harper brand or some other, make sure the tires are inflatable, which will allow for rolling on soft surfaces like the lawn.

Be sure to check out sale racks at local garden centers for bulbs that have been reduced in price. If they feel firm and are not moldy, they should still be good. Plant them as soon as possible. There is still time for them to get the winter chilling they need.

The idea of a living Christmas tree that can be planted outdoors after the holidays often sounds appealing, but without proper selection and care, this can be a disappointing experience. First, you should carefully select one that is suited to your part of the state. While white pine, spruce and fir will work in the cooler parts of Tennessee, they should be avoided in the warmer areas. Virginia pine, Eastern red cedar, Japanese cedar and Arizona cypress are good choices for all parts of Tennessee. Hemlock and Leyland cypress should be avoided due to numerous problems with insects and disease once in the landscape. Any living tree brought indoors should not remain inside longer than five days. One option is to go ahead and put the lights on the tree and enjoy it outside before time to bring it indoors. Be sure to keep it well watered but not standing in water. Once Christmas is over, move it outdoors and plant.

Cyclamen, kalanchoe, poinsettia, paperwhites, amaryllis, Christmas cactus, English ivy and rosemary topiaries offer weeks of added color and interest to the home during the holidays. Most perform best in bright, indirect light away from drafts, but rosemary would appreciate as much light as possible. The cyclamen, kalanchoe and poinsettias are often best added to the compost pile once they begin to decline. Keep your paperwhites from flopping over by adding alcohol. For more information, check out this link: http://blogs.cornell.edu/hort/2009/11/10/pickling-your-paperwhites/. 

Deck your halls and walls with things found in your garden. Gather fresh-cut greenery from your landscape. When pruning, cut back to a branch so as not to leave a stub. When cutting conifers, don't go beyond the innermost needles. If you do, it may not regenerate from that point again. To extend the life of fresh-cut greenery, soak it in a bucket of water overnight to hydrate the leaves and stems before using and or spray with the product like Wilt Proof. Wilt Proof forms a waxy coating that slows desiccation.

Fall Buttercup Control in Grass Pastures and Hay Fields

Tired of looking out across your pastures and hay fields and seeing that “sea of yellow” every spring?  Unfortunately,  many producers in Tennessee are all too familiar with buttercups. According to Neil Rhodes, Professor and Extension Weed Management Specialist with The University of Tennessee, most of these members of the genus Ranunculus are winter annuals that are easily controlled with a timely application of 2,4-D, and  interest in fall applications has increased in Tennessee over the past few years.

Why spray in the fall?

Historically, the vast majority of applications for control of buttercups have been in March to early-April. However, University of Tennessee research and producer experience has continued to show that fall (late October to mid-December) is actually a better time to spray for them.  Why is that?  Buttercups emerge in the fall and they are small and actively growing then.  As we have discussed numerous times, one of the most important keys to getting good results is to spray buttercups before they bloom.  This is an automatic with fall applications, given that buttercups generally do not bloom until spring.  Also, oftentimes in the late-winter to spring it is very wet and windy, making it difficult to spray before they are in bloom.  Another  reason for fall spraying is that many producers may have more available time then, compared to the spring.  Time consuming late-winter to early-spring activities such as calving, spreading fertilizer  and getting ground ready for row crop planting often make it difficult to get pastures and hay fields sprayed on a timely basis.  Last, but certainly not least, fewer vegetable crops, gardens and active greenhouses are present then; this means the risk of off-target damage to sensitive plants is lower.

 

In most cases, 2,4-D ester at 1 qt./acre provides excellent control of annual buttercups in the fall. The same rules apply as with spring applications.  Favorable weather (3 days of day time highs of 60 F); plenty of water (at least 20 gallons per acre spray volume); and the addition of a good, nonionic surfactant (1 qt./100 gallons of spray mix)  are all important ingredients in success.  An added bonus for the fall spray program is that it is also a very good time of the year to control musk thistle, buckhorn plantain and wild turnip.  These are controlled by 2,4-D and are often present in the same fields alongside buttercups.  If buckhorn plantain is severe, consider increasing the rate of 2,4-D.   Keep in mind that 2,4-D, unlike some of our newer pasture herbicides (ForeFront HL, GrazonNext HL, etc.),  breaks down relatively quickly in soil.  A benefit of this is that with fall applications of 2,4-D, clovers can be planted the following February. 

Are buttercups becoming resistant to 2,4-D?

This is a startling question we have received from a number of producers over the past couple of years.  Our answer for now is “We don’t thinks so, and we sure hope not!”.  What has prompted this question is that a number of 2,4-D failures on buttercup have occurred in our area over the past few years.  These were not cases of late sprays, low rates, not enough water volume, or bad weather.  These were timely applications where everything was apparently done correctly.  We are keeping a close watch on this situation and are conducting research to address it.  Late this winter we scouted a number of pastures in Blount County where 2,4-D had failed the previous year.  Upon close inspection, we found that the predominant species present was not hairy buttercup (a winter annual and our most common species), but rather bulbous buttercup, a perennial that is not effectively controlled by 2,4-D.  While the leaf and flower structures of these two species are somewhat different, the most reliable way to identify bulbous buttercup is to dig up some plants and look for the swollen corm at the base of the stem.  We conducted a replicated research trial at one of the locations this past spring.  Ratings taken at 2 months after application revealed that 2,4-D ester (1 qt. /A)  gave only 42 percent control.  However, GrazonNext HL (1.6 pt./A) gave 90% control.  What we believe is happening in a number of area fields is not the development of resistance, but rather a species shift from the more easily controlled hairy buttercup to a predominance of the more difficult-to-control bulbous buttercup.  We will keep you posted on this issue.

Always remember to thoroughly read the herbicide label before application and follow all directions and precautions.

 Jeff Via

 

Knotroot Foxtail: A Major Issue in Bermudagrass Hay Production

Much of Tennessee, particularly West Tennessee, is well-suited for production of bermudagrass hay.  An increasing number of producers across our state have been successful producing high-quality bermudagrass hay in small bales for sale at a premium to horse owners, municipal zoos, and other buyers.  Weed management has always been a challenge in bermudagrass production.  However, that challenge has greatly increased in recent years for many producers in West Tennessee due to the spread of knotroot foxtail, a fast-growing, perennial weedy grass.  The grass not only reproduces by seed, as is the case with the annual foxtails, but it also produces rhizomes, or underground stems.  The key problem with this weed and the other foxtails is that the bristly seed heads in hay cause serious problems with mouth ulcers in horses.

 

Becky Muller (Shelby County Extension Agent),  Jeff Via (Fayette County Extension Director)  Trevor Israel ( Extension Assistant – Weed Management) , and Neil Rhodes (Professor and Extension Weed Management Specialist) have teamed-up to work toward solutions for producers affected by this costly weed.  During the winter of 2012, problem hay fields in several West Tennessee locations were sampled.  Dormant foxtail clumps were exhumed and inspected for the presence of the tell-tale rhizomes.  As expected, knotroot foxtail was confirmed in numerous locations.  The team visited with researchers and Extension Specialists  in other southern states where knotroot foxtail has been present for much longer than in Tennessee, and learned that although a number of investigators have conducted research on this weed over the past 2 to 3 years, the best herbicide options have only given suppression.

 

In spring, 2012, the team worked closely with a number of producers and encouraged them to implement a sequential program of Pastora + glyphosate, followed by a second application of Pastora, with the goal of seed head suppression.  Where properly implemented, the program did suppress seed heads and allow for cleaner hay for the first 2 to 3 cuttings.  However, the program is expensive and quite injurious to bermudagrass.  And, the weed rebounded in late summer. 

 

Efforts in 2013 have included numerous farm visits to work with affected producers, educational  meetings, on-farm, replicated research trials in the spring and fall, and a fact sheet that is currently in development.   It is hoped that these and other future efforts will lead toward effective, affordable solutions to this problem, thereby increasing the viability of this high value agricultural enterprise in Tennessee.

                                   

 

Jeffery D. Via

4-Hers Grill For Competition and Fun

Hope Crouch and Logan Laine

 



Two Fayette County 4-Hers recently participated in the Western Region 4-H Outdoor Meat Cookery Competition in Jackson, TN.  Senior 4-Her Hope Crouch and Freshman 4-Her Logan Laine both grilled for the judges along with over 100 other 4-Hers in attendance at the contest. They were given two hours to do everything from set up their charcoal grills to turn in their meat- unassisted by adults.  They had plenty of practice before coming to the contest.  They and other Fayette Co. 4-Hers met with their 4-H agents each Friday afternoon for six weeks to learn about proper food handling and grilling methods.  This was Hope's first year to grill at the contest, and Logan's second.  Both grilled chicken for the judges, with Hope adding grilled peaches and Logan pineapple for a side dish.   Logan placed first in the chicken category.  Way to go kids! 

Wet Conditions Promote Fungus in Lawns

 

 by Tom Samples, UT Turfgrass Specialist

If you grow or manage a bermudagrass lawn in Tennessee, you may notice that this year several plants may have strange looking seedheads. Experts with University of Tennessee Extension say the odd seedheads may not contain seeds at all.

​These strange looking seedheads on bermudagrass are really bermudagrass inflorescence smut, which is caused by a fungus. Photo by A. Windham, UT Institute of Agriculture

“A dark, powdery substance may appear where viable seeds should be. This condition, referred to as bermudagrass inflorescence smut, is caused by a fungus,” said Tom Samples, a UT Extension turfgrass specialist. His colleague in the Department of Plant Sciences, Brandon Horvath, added that symptoms often go unnoticed until black, powdery spores, called teliospores, become noticeable to humans, for example when the teliospores discolor shoes and socks after you walk across the diseased turf.  Pets may also track spores indoors.

The fungus, Ustilago cynadontis, lives inside the bermudagrass plant. Both common and hybrid bermudagrasses are susceptible. Alan Windham, a plant disease specialist with UT Extension, says fungicides will not control this systemic fungal pathogen.  He also says you need not worry for the health of your lawn.  “Although unsightly, the fungus does not pose a threat to bermudagrass leaves, tillers and above- or below-ground stems. Applying a fertilizer containing nitrogen may help maintain vegetative growth, and frequent mowing will remove the infected seedheads,” Windham said.   

 

Bermudagrass inflorescence smut is just one of more than 1,400 species of fungi that are usually more prevalent during rainy periods in late spring and early summer. Fungal activity slows down somewhat as summer progresses, the UT experts said.

For more information about turfgrass production and maintenance go online to the UT Extension turfgrass website: http://tennesseeturf.utk.edu or visit the UT Extension publications website: http://utextension.tennessee.edu/publications You may also look online at the national extension website:  http://extension.org

UT Extension provides a gateway to the University of Tennessee as the outreach unit of the Institute of Agriculture. With an office in every Tennessee county, UT Extension delivers educational programs and research-based information to citizens throughout the state. In cooperation with Tennessee State University, UT Extension works with farmers, families, youth and communities to improve lives by addressing problems and issue at the local, state and national levels.

 

Fayette County's Best Tomato Contest

On Saturday, Fayette County’s Best Tomato Contest was held at the Fayette County Farmer’s Market.  Winner in the adult category for the largest tomato was Judy Mason with a 'Beefsteak' tomato that weighed in at 1 lb. 8 ¼ oz.  and was 16” in circumference.  The tastiest tomato in the adult category was grown by David Lee.  It was a 'Goliath' that was nearly 15” in circumference.  In the youth division, Austin Ourth brought a 'Brandywine' that was 1 lb. ¼ oz.  and 13 ½” in circumference.  Cade and London Arwood won the trophy for tastiest tomato in the youth division with their sweet cherry tomatoes.

Left to right:  David Lee, Austin Ourth, Judy Mason  front row:  Cade and London Arwood

 

 

 

If you want to grow prize winning tomatoes next year, try some of the following tips:

 

 

Choose a location for planting that gets at least 6 hours of sun a day, and is close to your water source.  I water my tomatoes every other day, but you may need to adjust your watering to the conditions in your garden.

 

During the fall before you plant in the spring, do a soil test and lime as needed according to the results.  Come by the Extension office to get a soil test kit. Liming is important because it adjusts your pH so that the plants can take up your fertilizers.  Proper liming also helps prevent blossom end rot. It takes a while for the lime to work, which is why you do this in the fall.

 

Never plant your tomatoes in the same spot two years in a row.  It is best if you can stretch this to 4 years between planting in that spot.  This helps with preventing soil-borne fungal diseases. Also don’t plant peppers, eggplants, okra, or Irish potatoes in that spot, as they are all in the same plant family with the tomatoes and get the same diseases. 

 

Mulch your tomato plants to provide a barrier between the soil and the tomato foliage.  This prevents fungal spores from getting splashed onto your plants.

 
 

Fertilize during the growing season according to soil test results.

 

If you are getting lots of foliage, but no fruit, you may be using too much nitrogen.

      

 

If you are getting blooms that fall off before they make fruit, it could just be really hot outside.  At temperatures over 90 degrees, flowers will sometimes abort and pollen will sometimes desiccate. 

 

Stake your plants or use cages to keep the foliage off the ground.  This is for disease prevention.

 

After you plant your tomatoes, start spraying with a preventative fungicide such as chlorothalonil every 7-10 days.  Re-spray if it rains, because it washes right off the foliage.  This is to prevent foliar fungal diseases such as late blight. 

 

Don’t apply insecticides unless you need them.  Aphids and tomato horn worms are two very common insects on tomatoes, and are very easy to kill if you see them.  Do an image search on your computer to see what they look like. Call the Extension office (465-5233) if you are in doubt about an insect or what to spray.  Never kill a ladybug on your tomatoes.  They eat aphids for you.  Do an image search on your computer to see what a lady bug larvae looks like so you will be sure not to kill them either.

 

Choose disease resistant varieties to help prevent diseases.  The plant tag on the tomato seedlings at the store will have initials that correspond to the diseases that the variety is resistant to. 

 

Don’t worry if you don’t see bees around your tomato plants.  They are gravity pollinated and do not need help from our insect friends.

 

 

 

Wildlife Team Competes at State Contest

On June 13, four youth from Fayette County represented us well at the State 4-H Wildlife Contest.  The contest was held at Natchez Trace State Park, and was open only to the twelve best teams in the state.  The kids arrived the day before and participated in an educational tour that focused on forest management practices.  They got to stay the night with other 4-H youth in the cabins at the park before starting the contest the next day.

Marah Williams,Madison Morris, Jacob Baker, and Hunter Winstead



 

 The contest itself is a full day with five different activities to participate in.  The first activity is wildlife identification.  The kids have to correctly identify mammals, birds, and fish from feathers, pelts, tracks, and even bird calls!  The next activity is a written multiple choice test on the environmental conditions of the Eastern Deciduous Forest, the habitat needs of the animals in our region, and various wildlife management terms and practices.  Then, they go outside to a plot of land and are given a series of animals to manage for.  The youth have to know which practices to recommend for a certain species given specific habitat conditions.  The last two events have the team working together to write out a management plan for three species at the outdoor location.  Then, they have to go before a judge individually and give an oral defense of their management plan.  The evening ends with a recognition banquet for all the teams and certificates and awards are given out. Our Fayette County 4-Hers prepared for weeks for this contest.  They placed eighth in the state, moving up four spots since our last trip to the state contest two years ago!  If you would like more information on the 4-H wildlife program, or any of the other opportunities in 4-H, call 901-465-5233. 

 

 

Fayette Co. 4-H Archers Compete at State Shoot

Hunter Winstead, Cameron Hart, and Rebecca Winstead

 

On April 27, three members of the Fayette County 4-H Archery Club competed in the state 4-H archery shoot in Murfreesboro.  All three participated in the compound bow division, where each youth shot 30 arrows worth 300 total possible points.  Hunter Winstead came in second place with a score of 294 and Cameron Hart placed fifth with a score of 281.  They both competed in the high school division which had a total of 22 youth.  Rebecca Winstead placed 6^th out of 23 shooters in the Jr. High division with a score of 263.  This is Fayette County 4-H’s first year to have an archery program. 

It's Time for Tomatoes!

Warmer weather has finally arrived, and that means it’s time to get out your gardening gloves!  Of course no Southern garden would be complete without some tomato plants.  I can almost taste the B.L.F.G.T. (bacon lettuce fried green tomato) sandwiches now!  To make things more interesting, UT Extension will be hosting a friendly competition.  We’re calling it “Fayette County’s Best Tomato Contest.”  There will be adult and youth divisions.  In the adult category, awards will be given for largest tomato by circumference, largest tomato by weight, tastiest heirloom tomato, and tastiest non-heirloom.  The youth category will consist of largest tomato by circumference, largest tomato by weight, and tastiest tomato (any variety).  Your fruit must have been grown by you in Fayette County to qualify.  The contest will take place on July 20 at the Fayette County Farmers’ Market on Hwy. 64 between Somerville and Oakland near the Tractor Supply store.  If you want to try for the largest tomato, a variety called Big Zac is said to produce 4-6 lb. fruit.  For the tastiest tomatoes, heirlooms can’t be beat.  This year I am growing ‘Cherokee Purple’.  ‘Arkansas Traveler’ is another tasty heirloom that is reputed to withstand our heat and humidity. 

 

Cherokee Purple

Now that you are ready to win, let me give you a few tips on successfully growing tomatoes. 

·         Practice Crop Rotation- Don’t plant your tomatoes in the same spot year after year.  Some fungal diseases overwinter in your garden soil.  You can break the disease cycle by moving your tomatoes around. 

·         Plant in the Right Spot- tomatoes need at least 6 hours of full sun each day.

·         Grow Disease Resistant Plants- If you are a new gardener, or if you know you are not going to spray any crop protectants, then I would suggest you grow hybrid tomatoes that have been bred for disease resistance.  Look for initials on the plant tags such as V for Verticillium wilt or F for Fusarium wilt. 

·         Use a Fungicide- If you want to harvest tomatoes until frost and prevent that scalded look towards the end of July, then you need to spray a protectant fungicide.  I personally spray my plants with chlorothalonil.  If you are strictly an organic gardener though, you could use a product containing copper.  Keep in mind that these are preventative measures.  If you don’t spray and you get late blight, there is nothing that can be done but pull up the plants.  No matter which you use, you will need to spray the foliage every 7-10 days and after every rain event, as it washes off. 

Of course if you run into trouble with your garden or find an insect that you need help identifying, just give me a call at the Extension Office and I will be happy to help you.  The number is 901-465-5233. 

 

4-H Archery Group gets Gifts From Friends of NRA

Early in the new year Fayette County 4-H started an Archery Project Group. The group typically meets once a week and is a big success! There are 18 youth enrolled in archery in the 4th -12th grade.  Since this is the first year for archery, we started out with limited supplies.  We asked everyone to bring whatever targets and bows they might have at home to share as 4-H only had four bows and five dozen arrows of our own. Fortunately, Fayette County 4-H Archery just received a big donation last week in the form of supplies from the Tennessee Friends of the N.R.A.  We were gifted with five large targets, five arm guards, five quivers, five finger protectors, and a new bow!   We immediately put these supplies to use, and everyone at the last meeting got a chance to shoot the new recurve bow.  Thank you Friends of the N.R.A. for your support!

4-Hers Hannah Williams, Marah Williams, Fisher Williams, Cameron Hart, and Mitchell McCreless with one of the new targets and the new recurve bow.

Rethink Impatiens for Your Shade Bed

If you have a shady spot in your yard where you usually plant impatiens, you may need to rethink your choice this year.  There is a new disease that is devastating to impatient plantings called downy mildew. 

Downy mildew is a fungal disease that cannot be controlled once your impatiens show symptoms.  If left in the bed, you wind up with nothing but green sticks.  In fact, the local growers are not even going to offer impatiens this year.  You may be able to find them in the big box stores, but I still would not recommend buying them. 

Bed of green sticks.

 Downy mildew shows up when the leaves yellow and curl.  If we have humid weather, you can flip the leaves over and see a white coating of the fungal spores.   Eventually, all the flowers and leaves will fall off, and all you can do is pull them up. 

Fungus on the underside of the leaves.

 

So, how does downy mildew get on them?  Well, unfortunately, more ways than one.  The fungal spores can be blown in on the winds of a thunderstorm.  After they are on your impatiens, the spores can be spread by water splash as you go around with the hose.  Replanting with new impatiens won’t work either, as researchers think that the spores may linger in the soil.  There is even talk that the disease may be seed borne, and the healthy looking plants at the big box stores may in actuality have the disease already. 

 The plant breeders are on the scene, working to make a selection that is resistant to this.  In the meantime, maybe try begonias for a change.

Master Gardeners Celebrate Accomplishments

On the evening of February 1, the Fayette County Master Gardener Association had a dinner and awards program at the Oak Room in Somerville.  This year, nine Master Gardeners received green name badges and graduation certificates for completing the Master Gardener training course and giving back at least 40 hours of their time as a volunteer for UT Extension. 



New Master Gardener Graduates (L to R, back row first) Wesley Parks, Betty Parks, Sandra Ourth, Maria Prince, Sherry Score, Tonya Ashworth (Master Gardener coordinator), Kathy Chandler, Delois Ledford, Les Shockey Not pictured:  Jan Taylor

Seven Master Gardeners received pins marking their five years of service as volunteers. 

Gardeners with 5 yr. pins (L to R)  Sputt Garnett, Deborah McCarty, Janie Miller, Jim Miller, Tonya Ashworth, not pictured- Dinah Armour, Jean Jenkins, Kerry Landers

 

Gold Leaf Club pins and certificates were awarded to two Master Gardeners for turning in over 100 volunteer hours in 2012.

Gardeners with over 100 volunteer hours- Delois Ledford with Extension Agent Tonya Ashworth.  Not pictured:  Darlene Rike

 

  Dr. Christopher Cooper, Interim State Master Gardener Coordinator, delivered the keynote address thanking the Fayette County Association for turning in over 1,200 volunteer hours in the previous year.  Mr. Richard Powell, UT Extension Regional Program Leader, thanked the volunteers and congratulated them on their success.  For more information on the Fayette County Master Gardener Program, call your local coordinator, Tonya Ashworth, at 901-465-5233.  UT Extension offers its programs to all eligible persons regardless of race, color, national origin, sex, age, religion, disability or veteran status and is an Equal Opportunity employer.



Rose Rosette- You Must Stay Vigilant

I attended the Tennessee Horticulture Expo last week, where I sat in on a session about Rose Rosette.  Rose Rosette is a viral disease that can infect any type of rose- not just Knockouts.  It is spread by a very tiny mite.  The mites are blown in on the wind, and you won't know they are there because you would need a microscope to see them.  So, if a rose bush happens to be in their path, that bush is effected. 

There are a few visible signs that your rose has this disease.  One way to tell is by looking at the tips of the branches or canes to see if they have  "witch's broom" growth.  Witch's broom growth is when there is a profusion of red new growth or disfigured flower buds, or a profusion of thorns.  Also, the leaves will have an elongated, strappy look. If you see any sign of this type of growth, go get a shovel-fast.  There is nothing available to spray, and pruning that tip off will not get rid of the disease.  If left unchecked, the virus will not only kill your rose, but will spread to all of the other roses in the area.  That might include your neighbor's bushes too.  Entire mass plantings with 200 plus roses have been completely decimated due to this virus.

Researchers are still trying to understand much about this virus.  For instance, we don't know if the virus lies latent for a time period before showing symptoms, making it harder to control.  We don't know if there are certain cultivars of roses that are more resistant to the virus than others.  If that is the case, breeders could work on improved rose varieties. Researchers at the University of Tennessee are leading the way in these efforts. In the meantime, the only thing you can do is to check your roses periodically and  be unmerciful about digging up diseased plants.

 

Disfigured flower buds- and lots of them in one place.

 

The virus takes its toll on the entire bed.

 

Strappy leaves, and a profusion of growth at the tip of the cane.

 

Witch's broom flower growth.