Friday, July 27, 2012

Herb Gardening Can be Delicious!

Home-grown tomatoes in the summer...  You just can't buy that flavor in a store.  I enjoy a tomato and mayonnaise sandwich as much as anyone else, but I also love to pair those tomatoes with fresh basil from my garden.  If you  buy fresh herbs at the grocery store, you know how expensive that can get. So, growing your own can save money too!   


Herbs like full sun, and can be grown in containers, in landscape beds, or in the veggie garden.  Rosemary, thyme, lavender,  dill, fennel, and savory are indigenous to the Mediterranean and prefer dry, lean soil in full sun.  Basil, tarragon, parsley, and allium like more water and richer soil.  Keep in mind the different water requirements when deciding where to plant your herbs.  Also, you should know that the proper time to plant annual herbs in our area is in the spring after April 15.  One exception is cilantro.  Cilantro is a cool season herb and should be planted by seed on Valentine's Day or later.  


Some commonly grown annual herbs (that have to be re-planted each year) include: cilantro, basil, parsley, dill, and stevia.  Chives, fennel, lavender, Rosemary 'Arp', oregano, mint, sage, and thyme are perennial.  However, we had such a mild winter this year that basil reseeded itself in my garden. 


They are all nearly insect and disease free. The only problem with insects I've ever had was with parsley.  Caterpillars ate every leaf on the plant.  However, those caterpillars turn into  beautiful black swallowtail butterflies, so I am o.k. with that.  


If you are thinking about growing herbs, but you aren't sure how to use them, I recommend going to a website such as allrecipes.com.  You can type an ingredient such as "fresh basil" into the search box, and it will pull up all the recipes that contain that ingredient.  Hopefully, you will consider adding them to your garden and your plate next spring. 







Tuesday, July 3, 2012

Gardening in a Drought

Wow, has it been dry lately!  Here are some ideas to help you make it through. 

Prioritize Your Watering

If you only have a few minutes to devote to hose dragging each day, then focus on the most drought susceptible spots and let the rest go.  The must-water list includes the following:
  • The vegetable garden- Sure, they can survive with little water, but you will be sacrificing food.
  • Annuals- Ever seen floppy impatiens? 
  • Container plants- Container plants tend to dry out faster -- especially terra cotta pots.
  • Newly planted trees, shrubs, and perennials- Their root systems aren't developed enough to make it through a drought.
  • New or recently repaired lawns- You spent too much money on that sod to let it croak!

Conserve Water

There are also a few things you can do to get the most out of your watering:
  • Water in the morning to prevent loss to evaporation.
  • Decrease fertilizers.
  • Don't prune your shrubs.
  • Water deeply and less often.
  • Mulch your plants.

Plan for the Next Drought

Consider installing a rain barrel to help you conserve water for the inevitable next drought.  Did you know that up to 623 gallons of water can be collected off of a 1,000 square foot roof from a one-inch rain?  That is a LOT of water!  You could be saving some of that water to use on your plants.  There are many ready-made barrels for sale at stores, or you can make your own.  Tennessee Yards and Neighborhoods has an excellent article on rain barrels with instructions.  I have a small 35 gallon rain barrel at my house, and I love it.  It even collects condensation from the air conditioning unit, so it refills very quickly whether it rains or not.  I use it to water all my annuals, containers, and newly planted perennials. 

In the meantime, keep praying for rain!

Perennial Foxtail in Hayfields Part 3

By Jeff Via


This perennial foxtail, aka knotroot foxtail, Setaria parviflora is a beast of a weed!!! More and more calls are coming in, after many folks discover they have it. We even had a producer in Georgia call the other day. Not sure if you have this type of foxtail? Well, it’s easy to identify, this perennial has fibrous roots with short, knotty rhizomes (picture below). Apparently as stated in one of the previous blogs, a species shift from the more easily controlled grass weeds, to a predominance of knotroot foxtail has occurred in many fields.


This year, many producers applied a dormant spray of paraquat or glyphosate or a combination of one of those with pendimethalin at varying rates. The fields that had the higher rates of pendimethalin showed better suppression of the seedling perennial and annual foxtail. Other fields had both perennial and seedling foxtail coming up after a glyphosate/pendimethalin treatment. Not sure the reason why the seedlings came up but this was probably due to too much rain. Rain is needed to activate the pendimethalin but not too much. One thing to note, the pendimethalin will do nothing to the perennial foxtail plants already in the field.

Since only a limited amount of research has been conducted in states south of Tennessee (where knotroot foxtail is more prevalent) with results showing that even the most effective treatments (Pastora or Pastora plus glyphosate) only providing suppression of the weed. To date, no treatments have been identified that provide complete control.

In a normal year, our recommendations would be to apply a dormant spray for winter weeds and then apply Pastora at 1.5 oz./acre + glyphosate (8 oz./ acre of a 4 lb./gal. product or equivalent) with a non-ionic surfactant at 1 qt./100 gal. 3-5 days after first cutting for knotroot foxtail suppression. This treatment could then be followed by 1 oz./acre Pastora or Pastora plus glyphosate10-14 days later if the weeds try to recover.

With the warmer than normal temperatures this year and the rapid early growth of the foxtail, troublesome fields needed to be treated prior to first cutting. We decided to treat fields with the perennial foxtail when they reached 8-10 inches in height. In many of these fields, seedlings were coming up as well.

Since only a limited amount of research had been conducted in states south of Tennessee (where knotroot foxtail is more prevalent) and the results show that even the most effective treatments (Pastora or Pastora plus glyphosate) only provide suppression of the weed. We decided to do some research in state.

 On March 28, 2012, Extension agents in Fayette and Shelby County along with help from BASF put out a research plot targeting perennial foxtail. This plot was located in a field where the perennial foxtail pressure was heavy.  The field was treated with varying rates of pendimethalin (Prowl H2O) (1.5 qts., 2qts. and 4qts.); the plot was conducted where 2 quarts of Prowl H20 was applied along with glyphosate as a dormant spray.  Go to our website to see  the treatments applied to the plot:

The remainder of the field was sprayed with Pastora at 1.5 oz. plus 8oz. of the 4lb./gal. glyphosate plus a surfactant at 1 quart/ 100 gal. After monitoring the plot/field, we rated both for injury and suppression/control to see how the different applications affected the perennial foxtail.  Ratings were conducted on April 13, 2012.  The table on our website contains the ratings.

The producer had reduced growth and discoloration of the bermudagrass following the applications but was aware of this ahead of time and knew this was part of the process to suppress the perennial foxtail. This was temporary and the bermudagrass recovered.

The field/plot was fertilized on 4/19/2012 with 80-20-40 and then cut for hay on 5/20/2012. On 5/25/2012 the producer applied Pastora at 1.0 oz. plus 8oz. of the 4lb./gal. glyphosate plus a surfactant at 1 quart/ 100 gal. to the field leaving out the plot.

On 6/12/2012, again with help from BASF, the plot received its second shots.  See the website for treatments applied to the plot:

After monitoring the plot/field, we rated both again for injury and suppression/control to see how the different applications affected the perennial foxtail.  Ratings were conducted on June 26, 2012 (Table 1 above).
The above listed treatments are experimental and not labeled for use in hayfields with the exception of Plateau. UT’s recommendation again, is a dormant spray of paraquat or glyphosate or a combination of this with pendimethalin followed by Pastora at 1.5 oz./acre + glyphosate (8 oz./ acre of a 4 lb./gal. product or equivalent) with a non-ionic surfactant at 1 qt./100 gal. 3-5 days after cutting. Then Pastora at 1.0 oz./acre + glyphosate (8 oz./ acre of a 4 lb./gal. product or equivalent) with a non-ionic surfactant at 1 qt./100 gal. 10-14 days later if the weeds try to recover. This treatment is subject to change depending on the year. This year was one we had to tweak.
After reviewing the data from the plot and the field, we were able to get roughly 85% suppression and the farmer was pleased. More research will continue the remainder of the year and again next year.